We tend to think of nails as purely cosmetic: something to paint, file extend, and generally made look pretty. The truth? They actually reveal much more about our wellbeing than most of us realise.
Subtle changes in colour, texture or shape can hint at what’s happening inside your body, from nutrient deficiencies to infections. To find out which nail changes are normal and which are cause for concern, we spoke to Tinu Bello, A-list manicurist and senior Mylee ambassador, and looked at the latest guidance from the NHS and dermatologists.
What do common nail changes actually indicate?
‘I always tell clients that nails are a window into your overall health,’ Bello says. Vertical ridges are most often normal, especially with age, but if they become deep or uneven, this can sometimes suggest a lack of nutrients such as iron or biotin. Small white marks are also usually harmless and often caused by mild trauma to the nail plate – a bump or knock, for example.
However, yellowing, thickened or brittle nails are a sign your nails are ‘crying out for help’, says Bello, particularly if they become crumbly or start lifting from the nail bed. Persistent yellowing can also occur after years of polish use, smoking or certain medications, but if it doesn’t improve, it’s worth checking with a GP.
When are ridges or grooves worth worrying about?
Bello notes that gentle vertical ridges are extremely common and rarely a cause for concern. However, as per NHS guidance, nails that develop deep horizontal grooves – known as Beau’s lines – can sometimes appear as a result of infection, autoimmune diseases (mumps, respiratory conditions, illnesses that cause prolonged fevers) or malnutrition.
According to health professionals, sudden changes to nail shape or texture can occasionally point to underlying health issues such as thyroid imbalance or nutritional deficiencies, so it’s sensible to get them checked if they persist.
What does nail colour reveal about your health?
Healthy nails are pinkish with a smooth surface. Any new dark streaks, spots or sudden discolouration should be examined by a GP or dermatologist. The NHS notes that a brown or black line running down one nail can occasionally signal subungual melanoma, a rare type of skin cancer that develops beneath the nail, though there are many harmless causes too.
Pale or spoon-shaped nails can be linked to iron deficiency, while bluish or purplish nails may reflect reduced oxygen levels in the blood. These symptoms don’t always indicate something serious but should be medically reviewed.
Can gel or acrylic manicures hide underlying problems?
According to Bello, while gel and acrylic manicures can make nails look flawless, they can also conceal what’s happening underneath. An occasional break is a good way to check your nails for brittleness, ridges and even early signs of fungal infection.
She advises clients to check their natural nails between treatments, looking out for peeling, soreness or discolouration. If the nails appear weak or damaged, she recommends giving them a break and applying a daily cuticle oil to natural nails. Mylee Sweet Almond Nail & Cuticle Oil 50ml (£9.99, mylee.co.uk) is a great option for extremely dry and damaged nails.
What should it feel like when someone’s working on your nails – and what sensations suggest they’ve gone too deep or caused trauma?
When should a manicure or acrylics be immediately removed?
Bello advises that if your nails are peeling, hurting or looking unusual, it’s time to remove your manicure and check what’s going on underneath. This aligns with NHS guidance to remove gel or acrylic nails immediately if you notice redness, swelling, or pain around the nail, as these can be early signs of infection.
Green or brown discolouration under the nail can also indicate a bacterial infection, which sometimes develops when moisture gets trapped beneath lifted extensions. In this case, the false nail should be carefully removed, and the area cleaned and left to recover before any new treatment is applied.
If your nails appear thick, crumbly, or yellow, it could point to a fungal nail infection, which will not improve without treatment. According to NHS guidance, fungal infections can spread or worsen under gel or acrylic overlays, so it’s best to remove all product and seek medical advice before reapplying anything.
When should you see a professional?
Most minor nail changes are harmless and grow out naturally, but the NHS recommends seeking medical advice if you notice:
- A nail separating from the skin beneath
- Persistent pain, redness or swelling around a nail
- A thick, discoloured or foul-smelling nail
- A dark band or patch that doesn’t grow out
Bello says that if nails suddenly change in appearance or texture, it’s best not to ignore it. As nails slowly grow, she advises keeping an eye on any new changes and speaking to a professional early if something doesn’t look right.
