As summer approaches, it marks the busiest season for hatmakers, thanks to a surge in weddings, garden parties – and of course – racing season.
Among the highlights of the social calendar is Royal Ascot, which calls for all hands on deck for milliners.
Taking place from 17–21 June, the event is a staple of British summer tradition, frequently attended by senior members of the Royal Family, including the King and Queen, the Prince and Princess of Wales, and the Duke and Duchess of Edinburgh.
The dress code is famously detailed, outlining everything from hem lengths and strap widths to headwear, depending on each enclosure.
But these guidelines haven’t always been so strict. In 2012, fascinators were banned from the Royal Enclosure as part of a broader initiative to formalise the dress code.
That same update introduced rules such as no strapless tops and modest skirt lengths for women, while men were required to wear waistcoats with ties – cravats strictly off-limits.
For those entering the Royal Enclosure, headwear must feature a base diameter of at least four inches (10cm), while in the Queen Anne and Village Enclosures, guests have more freedom in choosing their headpieces.
With these regulations in mind, MailOnline caught up with Rachel Trevor-Morgan – Queen Elizabeth II’s trusted milliner – for her insights on spring/summer 2025 trends and styling advice for this year’s event.
Queen Elizabeth II wears a charming peony hat by Rachel Trevor-Morgan in October 2018
Based in the heart of St James for over three decades, Rachel’s atelier exudes creativity. The space is lined with a stunning array of hats and headpieces in varying styles and sizes – many of which serve as starting points for bespoke commissions.
This season, she notes, there is a strong lean towards refined simplicity. ‘A key trend is for a very pared down look,’ Rachel says. ‘Clean lines, neutral colours and simple trims. We have been selling statement brimmed hats and lots of floral designs, which are always key for Royal Ascot.’
Her vibrant new collection reflects this perfectly: white, beige and pink dominate, accented with touches of green and burnt orange.
Silhouettes range from pillbox hats and headbands to eye-catching saucers and elegant boaters, ensuring there is something to suit every aesthetic.
Among her favourites is a two-tone large disc brim with a button pillbox crown: ‘a clean, modern and sophisticated silhouette full of drama and poise.’
For those feeling daunted by the idea of coordinating a complete look, it is advised to begin with your main garment, whether it’s a dress, jumpsuit or trouser suit.
From there, accessories can either echo a colour in the print or channel timeless neutrals, such as white or nude.
‘There are no particular rules for coordinating a hat with your outfit but they do need to speak to each other and make sense,’ Rachel explains. ‘Personally, I love coordinating hats and dresses but it is also fun to team colours that are unexpected.
Rachel’s favourite hat from her SS25 collection is a two-tone large disc brim with a button pillbox crown: ‘a clean, modern and sophisticated silhouette full of drama and poise’
Shapes range from pillbox hats and headbands to bold saucers and elegant boaters – something to suit every aesthetic
The stunning array of hats and headpieces serve as starting points for bespoke commissions
Queen Elizabeth showcases a feathered hat by Rachel Trevor-Morgan on Christmas Day at Sandringham in 2014
Rachel frequently designed floral hats for Queen Elizabeth throughout their 20-year collaboration
In 2011, Catherine, then Duchess of Cambridge, attended the Order of the Garter Service at Windsor Castle, wearing a bespoke hat by Rachel
Princess Beatrice and the Duchess of Edinburgh are among Rachel’s other distinguished clients
Based in the heart of St James for over three decades, Rachel’s atelier exudes creativity. The space is lined with a stunning array of hats and headpieces in varying styles and sizes
‘Make sure you consider your whole look in the mirror when making your final choice. If you are able to go to a milliner, they will be able to give you the benefit of their styling knowledge.’
Royal Ascot is the ideal occasion to try something bold – and Rachel encourages embracing it. ‘When you’re millinery shopping, remember that for Ascot the hat is the main event.
‘Opt for a simple dress that you can pair with a more extravagant hat. If you are anxious about headwear, keep in mind that everyone around you will be wearing hats so going too small in your choice might leave you disappointed and wishing you had gone for something bolder.’
Trends in millinery are always shifting, with shapes falling in and out of favour. Rachel is currently seeing strong demand for wide brims – striking in shape, yet softened by minimalist detailing.
Every piece is meticulously crafted by hand. Shapes are hand-blocked and the flowers are made by individually dyeing, cutting and shaping the petals.
Her exquisite craftsmanship has earned her an elite clientele, including royalty. ‘It was an incredible privilege to make hats for Queen Elizabeth and Ascot especially was always a very exciting time,’ she shares.
‘We never knew what outfits she would be wearing and only found out as her carriage appeared through the gates from Windsor Great Park.’
‘I usually worked alongside Stewart Parvin who would design her clothes. Once I had a sketch and a fabric swatch, I had a pretty free hand on what I created. Over our 20-year collaboration, I got to know what styles worked best for her.
‘She was of course charming to work with.’
The first hat Rachel designed for the Queen was for her 80th birthday service at St Paul’s – and many more followed.
The Princess of Wales, the Duchess of Edinburgh, and Princess Beatrice are among her other distinguished clients.
