LAURA CRAIK: Giorgio Armani was the colossus of the fashion world who ruled the red carpet… but never courted the limelight himself

He died the richest designer in the world. More importantly, he died as one of its most respected and revered.

Giorgio Armani, who passed away peacefully surrounded by his family aged 91, was a colossus of the fashion world, a man whose diminutive 5 ft 8 in height stood in inverse proportion to his stature.

During his 50 years at the pinnacle of fashion, he left an indelible mark, reinventing officewear for men and women in the 1980s, pioneering the concept of ‘stealth wealth’ in the 1990s and dominating the red carpet until the very end.

He dressed the biggest stars of the day, including Diane Keaton, Jodie Foster, Michelle Pfeiffer, Julia Roberts, Nicole Kidman, Beyonce, Zendaya and Cate Blanchett.

But his influence extended far beyond the red carpet. 

His suits also featured in a slew of memorable films over the years; he dressed Richard Gere in American Gigolo (1980), Robert De Niro in Goodfellas (1990) and Leonardo DiCaprio in The Wolf Of Wall Street (2013).

He was the most successful Italian fashion designer in history, as well as its most successful entrepreneur, as sole shareholder in an empire that expanded far beyond the catwalk. 

Giorgio Armani, who passed away peacefully surrounded by his family aged 91, was a colossus of the fashion world, a man whose diminutive 5 ft 8 in height stood in inverse proportion to his stature. Here he is pictured with Cate Blanchett in 2019

Giorgio Armani, who passed away peacefully surrounded by his family aged 91, was a colossus of the fashion world, a man whose diminutive 5 ft 8 in height stood in inverse proportion to his stature. Here he is pictured with Cate Blanchett in 2019

During his 50 years at the pinnacle of fashion, he left an indelible mark, reinventing officewear for men and women in the 1980s, pioneering the concept of 'stealth wealth' in the 1990s and dominating the red carpet until the very end. Here he is pictured with Latvian model Agnes in Paris on January 28, 2025

During his 50 years at the pinnacle of fashion, he left an indelible mark, reinventing officewear for men and women in the 1980s, pioneering the concept of ‘stealth wealth’ in the 1990s and dominating the red carpet until the very end. Here he is pictured with Latvian model Agnes in Paris on January 28, 2025

Giorgio Armani's suits featured in a slew of memorable films over the years; he dressed Richard Gere in American Gigolo (1980)

Giorgio Armani’s suits featured in a slew of memorable films over the years; he dressed Richard Gere in American Gigolo (1980)

He was the most successful Italian fashion designer in history, as well as its most successful entrepreneur, as sole shareholder in an empire that expanded far beyond the catwalk

 He was the most successful Italian fashion designer in history, as well as its most successful entrepreneur, as sole shareholder in an empire that expanded far beyond the catwalk

His tireless drive and ambition saw him preside over Giorgio Armani, menswear label Emporio Armani and his diffusion line Armani Exchange, with a couture line, Armani Privé, launched in 2005.

An early adopter of the concept of brand extension, he also pioneered Armani Casa, Armani Beauty and Armani Hotels and Resorts, as well as putting his name to art exhibitions, live music performances, sporting events and even chocolates.

Of the many times I met him, the occasion I remember most vividly was in 2011, when he granted me a rare interview to mark the launch of the Armani Hotel, an impressive Milanese property every detail of which he had masterminded with typical exactitude.

In my beige-toned room ahead of our meeting, I noted that even the Nespresso pods had been colour- coordinated and lined up.

This was typical Armani, a man for whom the devil was truly in the detail. Our interview took place in the presence of eight other people, including a translator. 

The atmosphere tensed when Mr Armani arrived, dressed in a white shirt and a navy suit, with pristine white trainers (‘very small feet’, I wrote in my notepad).

He was tanned, his blue eyes even more piercing in the flesh. 

Three glasses of champagne were placed with precision before us, but he declined to drink, explaining that while he used to enjoy the occasional glass of wine, a liver problem had caused him to stop drinking three years previously.

He dressed the biggest stars of the day, including Diane Keaton, Jodie Foster , Michelle Pfeiffer, Julia Roberts , Nicole Kidman , Beyonce, Zendaya and Cate Blanchett. Here he is pictured with Beyonce

He dressed the biggest stars of the day, including Diane Keaton, Jodie Foster , Michelle Pfeiffer, Julia Roberts , Nicole Kidman , Beyonce, Zendaya and Cate Blanchett. Here he is pictured with Beyonce

Giorgio Armani (L) and actress Sophia Loren poses for photographers in the hall of the opera house " La Scala" in Milan, December 7, 2004

Giorgio Armani (L) and actress Sophia Loren poses for photographers in the hall of the opera house ” La Scala” in Milan, December 7, 2004

British soccer player David Beckham (L) and Italian designer Giorgio Armani pose for photographers at the end of Emporio Armani Fall/Winter 2009/10 men's collections during Milan Fashion Week January 18, 2009

British soccer player David Beckham (L) and Italian designer Giorgio Armani pose for photographers at the end of Emporio Armani Fall/Winter 2009/10 men’s collections during Milan Fashion Week January 18, 2009

I told him he looked very fit for 77, and asked whether he went to the gym. ‘An hour and a half per day,’ he said. ‘I work out, do aerobics and Zen meditation.’

As the interview progressed and he relaxed, the room relaxed with him. He told me he admired the late Vivienne Westwood (‘an eccentric, but she is a genius’), the late Alexander McQueen (‘he was very good at what he did’) and Tom Ford (‘brave, and very good at promoting himself’). 

He also had some kind words for the Princess of Wales, calling her style ‘very simple’, adding ‘she’s got a nice profile, and that helps a lot’.

As writer Joan Didion once described herself, Armani seemed ‘temperamentally unobtrusive’ a man who preferred to observe than offer superfluous opinion, and who was happiest communicating through his clothes.

‘I’ve been wearing blue for so long that I can’t remember when I started,’ he told the New York Times in 2023. 

‘I chose it because it matches my personality – pragmatic and reserved – and because it helps my collaborators. 

‘They focus their attention on my actions and my words, not on what I wear.’

Yesterday, Italy’s prime minister Giorgia Meloni was among the first to pay tribute. ‘With his elegance, sobriety and creativity, he was able to bring lustre to Italian fashion and inspire the entire world,’ she wrote on X. 

Actress Penelope Cruz (L) poses with Giorgio Armani at the Giorgio Armani Prive event in Los Angeles, California February 24, 2007

Actress Penelope Cruz (L) poses with Giorgio Armani at the Giorgio Armani Prive event in Los Angeles, California February 24, 2007

Italian designer Giorgio Armani poses for pictures inside his boutique in Via Condotti, in Rome, Italy, June 5, 2013

Italian designer Giorgio Armani poses for pictures inside his boutique in Via Condotti, in Rome, Italy, June 5, 2013

Giorgio Armani acknowledges applauses with Leo Dell'Orco and Gianluca Dell'Orco at the end of his Spring/Summer 2025 collection during Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, June 17, 2024

Giorgio Armani acknowledges applauses with Leo Dell’Orco and Gianluca Dell’Orco at the end of his Spring/Summer 2025 collection during Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, June 17, 2024

‘An icon, a tireless worker, a symbol of the best of Italy. Thank you for everything.’

A statement from his company read: ‘With infinite sorrow, the Armani Group announces the passing of its creator, founder, and tireless driving force. 

Il Signor Armani, as he was always respectfully and admiringly called by employees and collaborators, passed away peacefully, surrounded by his loved ones.

Indefatigable to the end, he worked until his final days, dedicating himself to the company, the collections and the many ongoing and future projects.

‘Over the years, Giorgio Armani has crafted a vision that expanded from fashion to every aspect of life, anticipating the times with extraordinary clarity and pragmatism.

He has been driven by relentless curiosity and a deep attention to the present and to people.

‘Today, with deep emotion, we feel the void left by the one who founded and nurtured this family with vision, passion and dedication. In this company, we have always felt like part of a family.’

Italian actress Sophia Loren, right, and fashion designer Giorgio Armani arrive for the reopening of La Scala theater in Milan, Dec. 7, 2004

Italian actress Sophia Loren, right, and fashion designer Giorgio Armani arrive for the reopening of La Scala theater in Milan, Dec. 7, 2004

Giorgio Armani (C) sits between his sister Rosanna Armani (L) and president of AX Armani Exchange Olimpia Milano Pantaleo Dell'Orco (R) during the friendly match between AX Armani Exchange Olimpia Milano and Urania Basket Milano at Allianz Cloud on September 19, 2019

 Giorgio Armani (C) sits between his sister Rosanna Armani (L) and president of AX Armani Exchange Olimpia Milano Pantaleo Dell’Orco (R) during the friendly match between AX Armani Exchange Olimpia Milano and Urania Basket Milano at Allianz Cloud on September 19, 2019

Actor Arnold Schwarzenegger hugs Italian fashion designer Giorgio Armani at the end of Emporio Armani's Spring-Summer 1999 Men's collection Fashion Show in Milan, June 29 1998

Actor Arnold Schwarzenegger hugs Italian fashion designer Giorgio Armani at the end of Emporio Armani’s Spring-Summer 1999 Men’s collection Fashion Show in Milan, June 29 1998

Indeed, ‘family’ was everything to Armani. He had no children of his own, but was exceptionally close to his nieces, Roberta and Silvana, and his nephew, Andrea, all of whom work for the Armani Group. 

Along with Armani’s sister, Rosanna, 86, they are considered indirect heirs to a business worth an estimated $12.1 billion (£9 billion).

No riches in the world will make up for the loss of a man who previously revealed his biggest regret in life was ‘spending too many hours working and not enough time with friends and family’. 

A workaholic, he remained CEO and creative director of his company up until his death, even as his health was declining. 

Self‑aware until the end, he even admitted in his final interview, published in the Financial Times last weekend, that ‘my greatest weakness is that I am in control of everything’.

But this was also his greatest strength. Fiercely independent, Armani was approached many times with offers of investment, both from private equity groups and luxury conglomerates, but always opted to keep his business privately owned. 

Giorgio Armani arrives on stage with his niece Silvana Armani at the end of the Emporio Armani Womenswear Ready-to-wear Fall-Winter 2025/2026 collection show during the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan on February 27, 2025

Giorgio Armani arrives on stage with his niece Silvana Armani at the end of the Emporio Armani Womenswear Ready-to-wear Fall-Winter 2025/2026 collection show during the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan on February 27, 2025

Giorgio Armani acknowledges applauses with Leo Dell'Orco and Silvana Armani at the end of his Emporio Armani spring/summer 2025 collection during the Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, June 15, 2024

Giorgio Armani acknowledges applauses with Leo Dell’Orco and Silvana Armani at the end of his Emporio Armani spring/summer 2025 collection during the Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, June 15, 2024

Armani is pictured here during One Night Only series in Dubai on October 26, 2021

Armani is pictured here during One Night Only series in Dubai on October 26, 2021

For decades, his decision served him well. 

While profits had declined in recent years, the Armani Group remains one of the most successful privately-held fashion companies in history, with a revenue of ¤2.45 billion (£2.12 billion) and operating profits of ¤215 million (£186 million) in 2023.

He built his empire not through any nepotistic connections but from scratch. Born in the northern Italian town of Piacenza, Armani studied medicine at the University of Milan before leaving in 1953 to join the army. 

After serving for two years, he changed career. In 1957 he became a window-dresser at a Milanese department store, before working in the menswear department.

In the late 1960s, he met Sergio Galeotti, beginning a personal and professional relationship that lasted for decades.

With Galeotti’s support, he founded Giorgio Armani in 1975, selling his Volkswagen Beetle to raise funds for his dreams. 

Despite being 40 at the time, those dreams rapidly became a reality. By 1982, he was on the cover of Time Magazine, anointed as ‘The King’ with sales of $135 million (£101 million).

Of the countless looks he has pioneered over the years, his true passion was suiting, and an aesthetic rooted in the relaxed, soft-shouldered tradition of Neopolitan tailoring. 

Fabrics were fluid, linings were minimal and men and women alike clamoured to wear his elegant modernisation of office attire. 

His suits were timeless, as befitted a man who hated trends.

His distaste for them did, on occasion, make for some surprises on the catwalk. He didn’t give a fig for the skinny jeans trend: if he wanted to show harem pants, then harem pants he would show. 

He equally ploughed his own furrow on the red carpet. No matter that ruffles, sheer, fuchsia or sideboob were in vogue, an Armani woman would always look understated and elegant.

He realised early the immense value of red carpet exposure, and proactively courted the biggest stars. 

At the 1990 Oscars, he dressed five of the biggest names of the day, including Jodie Foster in a chic trousersuit, Michelle Pfeiffer in elegant navy velvet and, most memorably, Julia Roberts in a slinky beige dress worn without a bra. 

The following day, Women’s Wear Daily dubbed the event the ‘Armani Awards’.

He is survived by his sister, Rosanna, her son, Andrea, as well as Roberta and Silvana, the daughters of his late brother, Sergio. 

A foundation was formed in 2016 to protect the stability of the company, though it does not address the thorny issue of succession.

That Armani died mere weeks ahead of a planned 50th anniversary celebration, set to take place at Milan Fashion Week, will leave far more than a gap in the schedule. 

It leaves a gaping hole in the fashion firmament that can never be filled.

A funeral chamber will be set up this weekend in Milan, at Via Bergognone 59, inside the Armani Teatro, his custom-built show space in the city. 

His funeral will be held privately, in accordance with his explicit wishes.

In death, as in life, Il Signor Armani’s privacy endures.

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