The weather would be a trade-killer for many an embattled town centre – cloudy, drizzly and unseasonably chilly.
But this is Totnes, self-declared ‘creative capital’ of England, scourge of the chain store and home of what one independent retailer describes as a ‘Goldilocks high street’.
Which is partly why by 11am the historic South Devon town is already thronging with shoppers – locals and visitors alike – and the coffee shops are buzzing.
At least, most are. The one representative of a major national café brand, Caffe Nero’s Coffee#1, has only a couple of occupied tables in its comparatively spacious premises.
In fairness this may be because it stands at the top of the steepish high street, furthest from the main car parks.
Yet there can be no doubt that national chains, particularly coffee chains, are about as welcome in Totnes as a cold cappuccino.
Costa got the message 12 years when its attempt to launch in the medieval market town resulted in a residents’ 6,000-name protest petition, 300 objections to planners and a natty campaign website, ‘notocosta.co.uk’.
The company could have gone ahead but pulled out after then managing director Chris Rogers acknowledged that it was ‘a town with a long and proud history of independent retailers’.
Since the successful revolt, locals in the region have managed to keep most big brands from encroaching on their cherished town centre, with some business owners claiming others ‘wish’ for a high street like theirs.
Locals in Totnes have self-proclaimed their town as the ‘creative capital’ of England. Rosie Sage, pictured, runs independent store Fayre Trade Fairy and says the town’s strong sense of community keeps her in business
While many high streets across the country are declining, when MailOnline visited at 11am on a weekday Totnes town centre was already bustling with shoppers
Gavin Brown, front-of-house manager at Brioche cafe, says there is a ‘strong sense’ in the town that it is the ‘creative capital’, with lots of ‘artistic retailers’ and ‘quirky shops’
The town has been staunchly against allowing chains, especially coffee chains, from taking over the high street
At Brioche café, front-of-house manager Gavin Brown, remembers Totnes’s outrage well.
‘The locals got so riled about that,’ he said. ‘There were fears that every national chain would start eyeing us up.
‘People here have a strong sense that this town is the creative capital of England.
‘There are lots of artistic retailers, lots of quirky shops. It was felt franchises would diminish the character of the place.
‘Independence isn’t the only reason Totnes has bucked the trend of run-down town centres.
‘We have the coast, the moors, beautiful countryside and amazing history on our doorstep. It all helps attract visitors. But it also helps to look and be different.’
At the nearby Green Café, Yorkshireman John Pollard, agrees. He says Totnes is collectively ‘a little curiosity shop’ and it’s a misconception that chains are cheaper.
‘Our coffee is cheaper than Costa and our pasties cheaper than our nearest chain rival,’ he said.
‘Yes, Totnes is successful. I shudder to think what it’s like for shops in similar small towns in the north of England.
‘But we’re also under pressure. Our business energy contract has been crippling. Taxes we pay to local and national government have hit five per cent of turnover. There’s no support for family enterprises.’
John, 56, launched the business with his wife Sylvia Kerkar after returning from India three years ago. They try to employ young people and encourage entrepreneurship.
‘Some are thinking about it,’ he added. ‘If they’ve learned one thing it is that you have to work hard and be resourceful.’
Across the road at Totnes Wine and Fine Foods owner Simon Moorman, a former investment manager, echoes his words.
‘Relatively speaking, we’re thriving,’ he told Mail Online. ‘Visitors all tell me the same thing: “We wish our high street was like yours”.
Simon Moorman, who owns Totnes Wine and Fine Foods, says visitors always tell him ‘we wish our high street was like yours’
Pictured: Coffee#1, a subsidiary of Cafe Nero, and the only coffee chain in Totnes centre. The area has a history of fighting against the establishment of chain brands, including campaigning against the opening of a Costa in 2012
Speaking of Totnes’ success, John Pollard, of The Green Cafe, said he ‘shudders to think what it’s like for shops in similar small towns in the north of England’
Locals say the nearby coast, countryside and historic attractions on its doorstep also help to attract visitors to the town
‘But almost every Totnes trader I know is cutting back on hours or the number of people they employ.
‘The notion that this government supports growth is absolute crap. Business rates have doubled, the minimum wage and national insurance contributions have increased and local parking charges have rocketed.
‘Why is anyone surprised that high streets are in trouble.’
His words ring true but every trader we spoke to agreed that Totnes would be in a whole lot more trouble if its independent stores had to compete with an influx of major chains.
At the Fayre Trade Fairy, a mother-and-daughter run fashion store which supports suppliers across the world, 24-year-old Rosie Sage says the town’s strong sense of community keeps her in business.
‘If H&M moved next door to us we’d be finished,’ she said.
‘I used to live on a shopping street in Exeter next to the city centre. Premises would change hands every year because no independent trader could compete with the big brands up the road.
‘That doesn’t happen in Totnes because we have a really strong community willing to fight to protect what it has.’
Some of the protection is in-built, as Nigel Jones of the family-run East Gate Bookshop points out.
‘Having a medieval high street means that most shop premises are comparatively small – 2,000 sq ft or less,’ he said.
Nigel Jones, of East Gate Bookshop pointed out that the small shop sizes in the town which is full of listed buildings also naturally puts big chains from moving in
Ms Sage, 24, runs the Fayre Trade Fairy with her mother. She told MailOnline: ‘If H&M moved next door to us we’d be finished’
Brioche Cafe is one of many independent cafes in the area. The independent retailers have proved much more popular among locals and visitors that the Coffee #1 brand
A busy morning in Totnes town centre. While most shops remain independent, some brands such as Fatface, Mountain Warehouse and WHSmith do have stores in the town
‘This doesn’t work for most major chains who typically want at least 5,000 sqft to fit their business models.
‘It helps protect the rest of us. Although we have a few chains such as WHSmith, Mountain Warehouse, Fatface and the like, they have already snapped up the larger premises. There are few opportunities for other big brands to move in.
‘It’s also important to point out the obvious – we have a beautiful and unique town which is a draw in itself for visitors.
‘We’re a Goldilocks high street. Not too big, not too small and always tempting.
‘But we’re not a mini theme park. Locals have butchers, greengrocers and all the other shops they need to stay functional.
‘It’s old fashioned but it’s not Ye Olde Totnes.’
Up the road, Conker Shoes proprieter Simon Gwilt is proudly maintaining a trade that has been part of Totnes for hundreds of years. A shoemaker himself, he employs two others full-time using skills that have changed little.
‘Too many high streets look exactly the same, wherever you are in the country,’ he said.
‘Our shops all look very different. That’s what adds to Totnes’s character.
‘We have locals and visitors as regular customers. They like the idea of hand-made shoes which are properly sustainable. We design them so they can eventually be re-soled.’
Shoppers we spoke to were universally enthusiastic about a shopping trip to Totnes.
While the town’s population is a modest 8,800, it is a retail magnet for residents from surrounding villages.
Simon Gwilt, of Conker Shoes said that ‘too many high streets look exactly the same’ and that what ‘adds’ to Totnes’ character is that its stores all look unique
Pictured: Town Mayor Tim Bennett who proudly dons red robes, white gloves, and a gold chain before advising that he’s the 592nd Mayor of Totnes
The mayor says the fact there are 300 listed buildings, of which some 280 are on the high street, means that it is an automatic deterrent for chains as it comes with extra costs
Pictured: An independent store called Revival. The market town sits within the South Devon Area of Outstanding Beauty and so attracts many visitors to the area
Sue Keeler makes a regular 30-mile round trip from Kingsbridge, in the South Hams, precisely because she enjoys the day out.
‘I love the place,’ she said. ‘It’s great shopping here, a relaxing experience – you can wander round a beautiful town packed with shops you won’t find anywhere else.
‘I feel for people who are denied that because their town centre shops are run-down or boarded up.’
At Zappa’s ‘plant-based’ café, assistant Kerry Hope says the importance of surrounding villages is key to the local economy.
‘We serve regular groups who are on a coffee-shop crawl – like a pub crawl but cheaper, she said.
‘Local people do not like the big chains. That applies as much to the natives as those who have come down from London to live here.
‘There’s no doubt though that visitors sustain our businesses. Some shops would never get through the winter without the summer trade.’
Before we leave we call in on Town Mayor Tim Bennett, who proudly dons red robes, white gloves, and a gold chain before advising that he’s the 592nd Mayor of Totnes.
‘There was a time when you could only be Mayor if you bought another gold link for the chain,’ he said.
‘My predecessors clearly thought this a good way of keeping out the hoy-palloy.
Mr Jones described Totnes High Street as a ‘Goldilocks high street, not too big, not too small and always tempting’
An overhead view of the centre. At Zappa’s ‘plant-based’ café, assistant Kerry Hope told of how they serve regular groups who are on a ‘coffee-shop crawl’
Mayor Tim Bennett made the striking statement: ‘We are under no illusion. Totnes lives and dies by its high street’
‘What’s the secret of our success? There’s no single thing. A lot is built up about residents keeping out big chains such as Costa but in truth we aren’t really what most chains are looking for.
‘There are 300 listed buildings in Totnes and some 280 are on the High Street. So moving in to any of those premises is going to come with costs.
‘We have a decent retail mix now. The chains don’t dominate and our independent shops have a fair chance to succeed.’
Under the town’s famous clock tower Tim is spotted by visitors who question whether he is Mayor or Town Crier. Either way, they want a selfie. He’s happy to oblige.
‘The Town Council knows the importance of holidaymakers,’ he said. ‘But we can’t rely only on our summer trade.
‘Street markets are vital. I know of shops which take more money during our three Christmas markets then they do for the whole of the rest of the year. Without that income they would go to the wall.
‘We are under no illusion. Totnes lives and dies by its High Street.’
