How bird poachers in Indonesia turned their town into a perch for birders

A decade ago, when Kelik Suparno heard the Javan blue flycatcher’s melodic whistle, he perked up at the promise of a payday. Knowing a single bird could earn him two months’ salary at one of Indonesia’s bustling bird markets, he set off to capture the critically endangered creature.

Now, when he hears its distinct, high-pitched “twee-twoo” sounds, he perks up for a different reason. It means he gets to introduce a group of outsiders – researchers, photographers, tourists – to his favorite species.

Like many other men in the mountain village of Jatimulyo, Mr. Suparno made the switch from bird hunter to nature guide shortly after the village banned poaching. And now, as increasingly popular birdsong competitions across Asia threaten the country’s wildlife, Jatimulyo could set an example for other communities.

Why We Wrote This

Keeping songbirds is a source of joy and pride for hundreds of thousands of Indonesians, but the tradition is also wreaking havoc on their ecosystem. Does it need to be a zero-sum game?

Indonesia is the epicenter of what ecologists describe as the Asian songbird crisis: the rampant, illegal trade of rare and endemic birds to the devastation of their wild populations. The crisis affects at least 26 threatened species within Indonesia, where it’s fueled by the rising popularity of high-stakes birdsong competitions. Everyone wants these species to thrive. The love of native songbirds runs deep, especially here on the island of Java, and many hope to pass that love on to younger generations. But protecting both the country’s biodiversity and its songbird culture will require balance.

“In Indonesia, all kinds of birds are being hunted, everywhere,” says Mr. Suparno. “The competition accelerates the rate of bird extinction.”

Lindsey McGinnis/The Christian Science Monitor

The early morning is seen from the road in Jatimulyo, Indonesia, March 1, 2025. The mountain village passed a regulation banning bird hunting in 2014.

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The practice of keeping caged songbirds originated centuries ago in Java, and among general collectors, competitors, and breeders, up to 84 million caged birds are believed to be kept on this island today.

Six belong to Emmannuel Tantyo, head of a neighborhood in the heart of Yogykarta – a city about 20 miles away from Jatimulyo, and often described as Java’s cultural “soul.” Here, in the mazelike streets surrounding the city’s historic palace, a kind of perkutut, or zebra dove, reigns supreme.

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