My first food memory is of my mum’s incredible roast potatoes. They were delicious – crisp on the outside and fluffy in the middle, with lots of little crunchy bits scattered around. I’m obsessed with roast potatoes to this day.
Arlene Phillips
Growing up in Manchester, my mother was a good traditional cook and baker who made lots of Jewish food. Incredible chicken soup with kneidlach [matzo balls]. And birthday cakes decorated with colourful icing. She died when I was 15 [from leukaemia], and my sister Karen became the cook. I was the cleaner and the washer-upper.
Food, and what we could have and buy, was limited. There was still rationing, so we never wasted anything – we’d eat an apple right down to the last bit.
At Manchester High School Central, the grammar school for girls, I hated food with a passion. Meatballs made with fake meat and mashed potato made from powder. Worse was the sago or rice pudding. I couldn’t touch it.
When I came to London and discovered Spaghetti House it was like stepping into paradise. I’d share plain spaghetti with my best friend, as I was working all kinds of jobs so that I could study dance. To this day, I love Spaghetti House. The food doesn’t taste quite the same, but it has so many memories for me. The fact that I can now afford anything on the menu – you never get over that. When you’ve struggled with money then have enough to buy what you want, it always feels special.
In 1979 I went to Los Angeles to make the film Can’t Stop The Music with Village People and the producer Allan Carr. He took me to the Palm for lobster. I didn’t know how to eat them, but they were so tender.
To a young Arlene Spaghetti House was ‘paradise’
Once, in New York, Bianca Jagger, who I used to teach to dance, invited me to Le Cirque with Andy Warhol. You could order the most incredible food and Andy sat mostly in silence. I couldn’t eat anything as I was enchanted by him. Mick Jagger popped in, too! Happy memories.
Lobsters in LA were a challenge to eat
I put on weight whatever I eat. Sometimes I think I may as well paste this cake right on me because I know it’s going to show. I used to dance eight hours a day, but still had to be careful about what I ate. I’d try every crazy diet going then abandon it and just eat.
Vegetables and salads became my obsession. When I was young, my treat was always a cream puff, and even as an adult I’d chase one just to sink my teeth into all that cream. I never gave up my love of food, I just commanded myself to eat less, and eat healthily. I’m famous in the theatre world for carrying chicory around with me. If I was hungry it would fill me up and I wouldn’t put on the pounds.
I’ve been lucky to have partners who cooked. Angus [who she has been with since 1985] is probably one of the best cooks ever. He’s famous for his spaghetti bolognese, which has a divine touch, along with endless other pastas, amazing confit duck, wonderful sauces and dips. His roast chicken is just beyond.
I’m sensitive to even the tiniest amount of garlic. And what’s awful is Angus loves garlic – he wants it in everything.
My comfort food is mashed potato, eaten with a spoon and lots of butter.
I always have goat’s cheese in my fridge, salad piled high and lots of vegetables. It’s a very healthy fridge.
My last supper would be sushi of every kind. Then for pudding, definitely a knickerbocker glory.
Arlene Phillips is the movement director on A Midsummer Night’s Dream, from 31 May at The Bridge Theatre (bridgetheatre.co.uk)
