Pilgrims and tourists are finally returning to the birthplace of Christianity for the first time since the war in Gaza broke out.
Nazareth, the ancient city of Jesus’s upbringing, is slowly re-awakening as visitors tentatively step back into the cradle of Christmas.
And for those who made the journey, a joyous and emotional welcome awaited them. Because Nazareth is home to the biggest Arab-Christian community in Israel, and for many locals the return of visitors brings back a sense of hope.
This year the Christmas market is back for the first time since 2022, ten months before the October 7 attacks started the war, and it re-opened to huge fanfare.
Christmas lights glisten along the cobbled streets, children run around in festive hats, posing next to a Santa on stilts, and Jingle Bells in Arabic blasts from giant speakers.
Meanwhile shop windows are dressed with all ornaments and wrapped gift boxes you might see in Selfridges alongside multiple nativity scenes representing the birth of Christ.
And next to the Basilica of the Annunciation stands a sparkling 100ft Christmas tree – one of the tallest in the Middle East. The historic church is where Catholics believe the angel Gabriel told the Virgin Mary she would conceive Jesus.
Lana Shukha Nasir, a member of the Greek Orthodox council, was setting up the Christmas market as I wandered through. ‘Nazareth is very special and it’s still the same as it was back in biblical times. Mary used to fetch water from Mary’s well over there,’ she says, pointing it out for me proudly.
Christians celebrate the 40th annual Christmas parade heading towards the Basilica of the Annunciation in Nazareth, Israel, Wednesday, Dec 24, 2025
Wearing traditional costumes, children take part in the 40th annual Christmas parade heading towards the Basilica of the Annunciation in Nazareth, Israel, Wednesday, Dec. 24, 2025
A man wearing Santa Claus costume takes part in the 40th annual Christmas parade heading towards the Basilica of the Annunciation on December 24, 2025 in Nazareth, Israel
‘This year we have had thousands of Israelis coming to visit as it’s also Hanukkah, and we see a lot of Eastern Europeans here because of the Orthodox church.’
And Maher, who has owned a florist in the square since 1992, is selling handmade wreaths and mulled wine.
‘Last year we didn’t put the big tree up because of the war. Celebrations were much smaller. So far I haven’t seen many tourists yet, but you can still feel the Christmas spirit today.’
The war between Hamas and Israel painfully affected the tourism that locals so heavily rely on. According to Israel’s tourism ministry, 40,000 Christians are expected to come this festive season – around a third of the pre-war numbers.
Several tour operators told me most pilgrimages will not start up again until next year, so numbers will improve, but already the lights are back on, choirs are singing again and people are daring to feel Christmas return.
Andrew Kirk, who runs UK-based organisation Generation 2 generation (g2gmandate.org), has been bringing groups of Christians over for the last 20 years, including some during the last two years of war.
He told me: ‘Today, people are starting to feel more confident as tours are arriving again, many to show solidarity. We have had loads more enquiries from people all around the world.’ Chris Pateman, 72, a retired analyst from Surrey, has returned from an emotional pilgrimage – a journey he made after losing his wife Jan to cancer four years ago.
‘My wife and I talked about coming to Jerusalem throughout our 40 years together, but it never happened,’ he says. ‘When we finally decided we would go, Covid hit. Then Jan was diagnosed with cancer and died a few months later.
‘Since then, I’ve been trying to do the things we always said we would – and at the top of that list was Israel. It was the fulfilment of a lifetime ambition,’ he adds. ‘Everything lived up to my expectations. This is where Jesus lived, and where He will return,’ Mr Pateman says. ‘If you ignore Israel, you might as well throw away most of the Old Testament and New Testament. God is present here – and always will be.’
