FORGET Paris… I discovered Sweden’s secret fine dining scene at Operakällaren, the 1787 landmark with 40,000 bottles of wine to choose from.
I’ll admit it, the alarm going off at 2.30am felt like a cruel joke but when you’re chasing culinary greatness, you make sacrifices.
I flew out of London early on a Saturday and dashed back late Sunday, all for one purpose: to land in Stockholm and discover the city’s most famous restaurant, Operakällaren.
But before the main event, I made the classic rookie mistake of loading up on local treats.
If you’re planning this trip, heed my warning, SKIP LUNCH.
I started the day in Stockholm’s old town with a creamy Semla (a cardamom bun stuffed with almond paste and whipped cream) and a massive Kanelbulle (cinnamon bun).
For lunch, I couldn’t resist the iconic Swedish meatballs, served with buttery mashed potatoes, rich gravy, lingonberry jam, and pickled cucumbers.
Delicious? Absolutely. Regrettable later? You bet.
Because what followed was a five-hour onslaught of pure, unadulterated luxury. I was so stuffed by the end, I needed to be rolled out the door.
STEPPING INTO HISTORY
The moment you arrive at Operakällaren is pure theatre. It’s housed right next to the Royal Swedish Opera, and the name literally means ‘the opera cellar’.
Walking into the dining hall, the sheer grandeur hits you. The ceilings are soaring, the atmosphere is dark and intimate, and honestly, it’s the most beautiful restaurant I’ve ever seen. It’s like stepping back to 1787, which is when the original tavern first opened here.
Despite its age, this place is cutting edge, boasting its hard-earned 1 Michelin star.
But here’s the real kicker for wine lovers, the basement holds the Nobiskällaren. Opened in 1961, this is Sweden’s first temperature-controlled wine cellar, home to a staggering 40,000 bottles. By the time I left, I felt like I’d personally tried to get through a good chunk of that.
We handed over the reins to our sommelier, Linus, whose wine pairing menu, named ‘Pour les Curieux’ (For the Curious), dictated the entire evening.
THE FIVE-HOUR FEAST KICKS OFF
Our 6:15 PM reservation started in the best way possible with the essential champagne trolley. I toasted the start of the marathon with a glass of Krug Grande Cuvée 172nd edition.
The menu, curated by Emanuel Tarnqvist and Jesper Gren and titled “…dans la lumière du souvenir”, promised a global tour with Swedish influences.
We started gently, signalling that autumn was officially here, with a warm rabbit broth. This was followed by a parade of perfect amuse-bouches, including the David Herve Royale Oyster with nuroc cham, and Anchovy Mariposa with pan de cristal.
Then came the first course, Coconut & Caviar, finished beautifully with ravida olive oil. This beauty was paired with a 2024 Max Kilburg Riesling Kabinett, sweet, refreshing, and incredibly easy to drink.
Next, things got exotic with a Vietnamese-inspired dish, squid cut like noodles with trout roe and maitake. This was served with chopsticks and paired with Sake. I’m going to be honest, sake is like marmite, and it’s not for me, but the dish itself was stellar.
LOBSTER, TRUFFLE AND THE DUCK
My absolute favourite course of the night was the magnificent blue lobster.
It arrived as riz en sauce with white alba truffle and finger lime and matched by a unique, rosé-looking champagne, the Gaspard Brochet 333.D.
Even the bread course was an event, served with beurre bordier, a stunning butter shaped like a flower.
We moved swiftly to the turbot, featuring XO salsa, baba ganush, and a touch of sake. This was paired with a 2023 Phelan Farm Pink Chardonnay.
The main event was the duck, or Canard ‘Saigne’, served with col de dama, moroccan onion and pistachios. As a huge fan of red wine, the accompanying 2022 Terroir al Limit Dits Del Terra went down an absolute dream.
Before we even get to dessert, I need to talk about the service. Every member of staff was faultless, giving every dish and every wine a story.
LEAVE ROOM FOR THE TROLLEY OF EXCESS
After a necessary 15-minute breather, it was time for the dessert, Poivre de Timut et The Oolong (timut pepper, mirabelle plums, and milky oolong).
This was complemented by the sweet and easy-to-drink 2021 Kracher Beerenauslese Cuvée.
Then came the final, overwhelming spectacle: Le Chariot de Mignardises – the parade of petite fours.
The choices felt endless: Éclair, what was described as the world’s best passionfruit Marmelade, Canelé, Fruits de Philibon, and the classic showstopper, Crêpes Suzette.
I was too full for the theatrical flambe of the Crêpes Suzette, but I managed to squeeze in the fittingly named Sunbun, a delicious concoction of vanilla, blood orange, and batak pepper.
I also managed a bite of the decadent Tartelette au Chocolates (montelimar, raspberry and green cardamom).
We finally stumbled out the door at 11:30pm. Five hours of world-class dining.
The Swedish food scene is phenomenal, and Operakällaren is the historic, luxurious, and totally unforgettable heart of it. Just promise me you’ll save room.
