I TAKE in a sharp breath as reality hits me – I’m sitting looking at the Taj Mahal on the very bench made famous by Princess Diana, and it’s a moment I’ve been dreaming about for years.
Walking through the perfectly manicured gardens, the mist disappears and the sun illuminates the dome of pristine white marble.
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The intricate carvings and elegant arches come into view and I begin to understand why this masterpiece took 22 years to complete.
Standing at 73ft tall, the mausoleum is a true symbol of love, built by Emperor Shah Jahan in 1648 in memory of his beloved wife Mumtaz Mahal.
It’s only the second day of my adventure in India, but already I can feel my love for this country growing.
Delhi Days
I’m on an eight-day trip exploring India’s Golden Triangle with G Adventures.
The tour sweeps me through vibrant and bustling New Delhi, the centuries-old traditions of Agra and the regal splendour of Jaipur, with a taste of mountain life in Dhula village along the way.
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Touching down in New Delhi, I meet charismatic local guide G and my 15 fellow travellers – a diverse bunch hailing from Britain, Canada, the US and Australia – for dinner.
The following morning, we navigate the labyrinthine streets of Chandni Chowk – a sensory overload of sights and sounds, weaving past tuk-tuks and the occasional bejewelled cow.
Our destination is the Salaam Baalak Trust, visited by the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge in 2016, which provides safe housing, education and support to vulnerable children.
Greeted by three former residents, we hear stories of hope and resilience, but it’s also our first humbling reminder of the country’s realities.
Next up is a journey through Delhi’s rich, spiritual history to see the grand Jama Masjid mosque, marvelling at its expansive courtyard and timeless architecture, before heading to Sikh temple Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib to sit alongside locals and contemplate amid the devotional music.
Empire State of Mind
On our four-hour coach journey to Agra, we learn about the city’s illustrious role as the centre of the Mughal Empire and how the Mughals were the original billionaire entrepreneurs.
If they were around today, they’d be even richer and more politically powerful than the likes of Jeff Bezos and Elon Musk.
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Our first stop is the exquisite Baby Taj, officially known as the Tomb of I’timad-ud-Daulah. Built before its bigger brother, it served as inspiration for the Taj Mahal itself.
Next, we explore stunning Jahangir Palace within the extraordinary Agra Fort.
Just a 10-minute drive from the Taj Mahal, this UNESCO World Heritage site is a citadel steeped in history.
Originally built from red sandstone, successive generations of Mughals expanded its walls creating a fortress as fascinating as its more famous neighbour.
After a morning immersed in Agra’s heritage, we join a Persian rug workshop and I jump at the chance to assist the artisans in making the meticulously crafted textiles.
Later, we head to Maya restaurant with its terrace overlooking the bustling streets, where I savour every bite of the tender, flavourful tandoori chicken and local Agra curry – a speciality made with coconut.
My whole meal, including beer and naan, costs less than a tenner.
We grab a nightcap at Old England Café across from our hotel, the newly refurbed Dev Villa Hotel, and over another refreshing Indian beer, £3, we discuss our unforgettable day.
Pitch Perfect
More than two-thirds of India’s 1.45 billion population live in rural areas, so I’m excited for a small detour away from the hectic cities.
Making a visit to Dhula village turns out to be the perfect tranquil retreat – our tented accommodation is cosy and the main house resembles an inviting 1920s guest house.
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Some of our group unwind with a book or wander the idyllic grounds, while others take a refreshing dip in the outdoor pool.
I sign up for a bike tour through the village, £7, riding past fields, waving to excited schoolchildren and making way for goat herders heading towards the mountains.
As the sun sets, we tuck into an enticing buffet – my favourite dish is a mouth-watering chickpea and cauliflower curry – before we devour delicious Indian desserts like gulab jamun (sweet fried dumplings).
The evening ends around the firepit, stargazing and catching a glimpse of Jupiter!
Leaving the mountains behind, we travel 45 minutes north to meet the incredible women of Anoothi – a charitable project where women from marginalised communities are given jobs in block printing, near Jaipur.
We tuck into delicious pakoras and sweet masala tea, then are lucky enough to have a go at the craft, creating patterns and shapes.
Before departing, I buy a small handmade elephant for £9, to give to my niece as a reminder of my time with these inspiring ladies.
Rajasthan Rules
Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan, proudly lives up to its nickname “The Pink City” – a title earned in 1873 when its buildings were painted pink to welcome Prince Edward VII.
The British influence has long disappeared, but Jaipur’s rose-tinted charm lives on.
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Here, we visit its most famous landmark, the City Palace, adorned with 953 windows (or jharokhas), and the magnificent Amber Fort with its elegant gardens.
Before dinner, G takes us on a walk through the busy streets to sample local delicacies and pick up spices, then to climb a rooftop for breathtaking views of this chaotic but captivating city.
Later, we hop into a tuk-tuk and make our way to restaurant Dagla The Rooftop, a super-pretty space, where I devour the creamiest butter chicken curry and pillow-soft buttered naan, £4.50 (Facebook.com/daglarooftop).
Our second day in Jaipur begins at 6am for a three-hour bike and walking tour, £19, and it’s well worth the early start.
As we pedal through the waking city, locals shout: “Radhe Radhe!” – an affectionate greeting – and along the way we feed cows long grass.
The lively market is stacked with local produce and we laugh at the mischievous monkeys stealing bananas from sellers.
Listening to 300 voices united in a Krishna chant at Govind Dev Temple leaves me with goosebumps.
And as Jaipur’s renowned for its gemstones, I also browse stunning unique pieces at Ratnavali, picking up a beaded necklace for £6 and eyeing up an emerald ring for £200.
I also pop into Krishna Textiles to order bespoke garments in local fabrics.
Later, we join a cooking class with Merwara Kitchen Tales, £19, where local Jaya and her grandmother guide us through preparing an authentic feast.
Taking turns to create each dish, we laugh a lot and leave with our hearts (and bellies) full.
We gather for one final night in New Delhi, sharing the pictures and memories we have created together.
It’s been a whirlwind, but as I say goodbye with a “namaste”, I know I have memories I’ll cherish forever.
FYI
G Adventures’ eight-day Golden Triangle tour of India costs from £679 per person (Gadventures. com).
Return flights from the UK to New Delhi cost from £386
