I visited the sleepy Italian city that rivals Venice without the crowds but with empty beaches

RIGHT on Italy’s eastern coast sits an often overlooked little city that blows Venice right out of the water.

It may look a little like the old Italian city in its appearance, with its buildings lining winding canals, but in Ravenna you aren’t pushing and shoving among crowds of fellow tourists — or getting ripped-off at an overpriced restaurant.

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Once a bustling international hub and the former capital for three different empires, Ravenna is now a sleepy region loved by locals for its quiet pace of life.

It’s supposedly loved by our King and Queen, too, who chose to make a state visit here in April. And now it’s loved by me, as well.

On my short adventure here I found a delightful mix of stunning architecture, great food and wine and easily accessible beaches.

And that’s before you even get to the heart of this city’s fascinating history.

The town’s time in the spotlight, over a millennium ago, can be observed at the Early Christian Monuments, a Unesco World Heritage Site, which comprises eight buildings.

Feels like the Tardis

The religious structures are breathtaking to behold, embellished with precious marble and mosaics that date all the way back to the fifth and sixth centuries.

It’s impossible to stroll through Ravenna without stumbling upon something historic.

One of its star archaeological sites, The Domus of the Stone Carpets, was discovered by accident in the ’90s, when excavation work was carried out beneath a garage.

Underground, builders found 40 layers of ancient artefacts as well as some incredible examples of the mosaic work that was common in this era.

Even if you aren’t into art, it’s hard not to feel awestruck by the sheer detail of the creations.

The Basilica of San Vitale is another historical must-visit in Ravenna.

The sixth-century Byzantine church feels like the Tardis, rather unassuming from the outside but as you step inside, its 17-metre-tall roof opens up.

Here you’ll find 1,500-year-old mosaics depicting religious and historical scenes, as well as carved pillars and archways that frame parts of the building.

When the light catches these colourful displays, it is truly dazzling.

There is plenty more to Ravenna than its past, though, and all of it can be explored easily on two feet, especially when you’re based at the 3H Hotel Diana, which puts you in the heart of the action.

There’s no dinner on offer, only breakfast, so you’ll have to head out for food.

But that’s no bad thing as Ravenna’s restaurant scene is thriving.
Hostaria Pasolini should be top of the list for any keen foodie.

I arrived late in the evening, and the owner told me exactly what I should order — cappelletti with beef ragu sauce and a bottle of red wine.

This pasta stuffed with cheese is a local speciality, and it’s done best here in an almost stereotypically Italian setting.

At €12 for a filling plate, who could resist? Just leave space for a tiramisu.

Another must-try is piadina, a type of flat bread for which this region is famed.

The breads are served with most meals, although they are especially good when eaten with local ham and cheese in a sandwich.

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You can pick one up at Profumo di Piadina, hidden down a winding alleyway just off the main square, where you can get a ham-loaded sarnie for €5.

Despite Ravenna’s sleepy reputation, it’s not hard to find a place for a late-night drink.

The unpretentious and cosy Moog is the bar I found myself in most evenings, where you can spend warm summer nights drinking €6 Aperol spritzes in its cute cocktail garden.

Comfy spot on sand

If you tire of exploring the city and its cultural sites, the nearby beaches are the ideal spot to kick back and relax — particularly in the height of summer when temperatures reach a sizzling 30C.

The Marina di Ravenna is only 20 minutes away by bus.

Tickets cost €1.50 and can be bought on board, which means you don’t need to plan ahead.

Sure, you’ll find more beautiful beaches further south in Italy, but this one is ideal for families and one of the safest I’ve visited in Europe.

I didn’t feel worried about leaving my phone on my deck chair here and was able to find a comfy spot on the sand near the colourful bars.

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Check out Hana-bi while you’re here, a cheap and cheerful spot with a play area for kids, beach volleyball courts and music that was so thumping it kept many visitors laughing away, even when an unseasonable rainstorm struck.

Of course, a day at the beach isn’t complete without ice cream, but try and wait until you get back to the city centre as Gelati Allegri — which translates to Joyful Ice Cream — does some of the best scoops I’ve ever tried.

They have all the classics, but owners Thomas Dreier and Cosimo Cazzato have created some delicious new flavours using only fresh ingredients.

My favourite was chocolate with homemade apricot sauce which was both sweet and tart.

And, most importantly, not a rip-off like most holiday ice cream shops.

Arguably, the best thing about this city is how the locals treat you like one of their own.

You’ll feel at home from the moment you arrive, and then you’ll never want to leave.

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