British tourists heading to Spain spend an average of £913 on a week-long summer holiday, according to recent travel data.
But my five-day solo trip to Amritsar, in northern India, cost less than that – including flights – and gave me luxury accommodation, unforgettable cultural experiences and a personal connection to my heritage that no beach break could rival.
Like many British Asians, I grew up hearing the phrase ‘back home’ thrown around by older relatives.
But, after spending decades travelling to India, especially with my children in tow, I found India overwhelming.
Amritsar, in particular, felt dusty, disorganised and frankly disappointing. With over a billion people calling the country home, its major cities are often congested and chaotic, especially if you stick to the main tourist routes.
Throw a couple of overtired kids into the mix and it becomes less spiritual awakening, more stress overload.
On one visit, I remember stepping off the plane and being hit by a wall of heat, noise and movement.
From the moment we left the airport, it felt like total sensory overload.
Narinder Kaur (pictured) went on a five-day solo trip to Amritsar, in northern India, for less than the average cost of a holiday to Spain (£913), including flights
My trip gave me luxury accommodation, unforgettable cultural experiences and a personal connection to my heritage that no beach break could rival
The roads were packed, rickshaws darting between cars, endless honking and motorbikes carrying entire families with no helmets in sight.
I vividly remember watching a cow meander through the middle of a roundabout while two buses hurtled past on either side, barely missing each other.
The air felt dusty, the pavements were crowded and the power kept cutting out in our hotel.
I was constantly on edge, worrying about crossing the street, where to find clean toilets and it felt like I was in survival mode the whole time.
The hotel was far from everything, the power cut out almost daily and we were constantly warned about scams, pickpockets, or drinking the wrong water.
I couldn’t hear myself think and just wanted five minutes of calm.
By the end of it, I wasn’t just tired, I was totally put off.
What was supposed to be an enjoyable trip back ‘home’ felt like stress in 40-degree heat.
When I found myself booking a spontaneous solo trip to Amritsar, I had one aim: to reconnect with my Punjabi roots on my own terms. No expectations
I didn’t swear I’d never go back, but I definitely didn’t plan to. As much as I loved India and being with my family, it did get a sense of dread for the inevitable chaos.
So when I found myself booking a spontaneous solo trip to Amritsar, I had one aim: to reconnect with my Punjabi roots on my own terms.
No expectations. Just me and a direct flight from Gatwick.
I didn’t anticipate that five days in northern India without a big itinerary, or blowing the budget, would completely reshape how I saw my heritage.
And I certainly didn’t expect it to cost less than a holiday in Spain.
Let’s get the long-haul elephant out of the room. Flying to India isn’t quick.
But my return flight with Air India from Gatwick to Amritsar cost £560 and was direct, which made all the difference.
The airline is no-frills, but it got the job done and now there are direct options from Birmingham, or you can fly via Delhi or Mumbai if you’re hunting for deals.
I didn’t anticipate that five days in northern India without a big itinerary, or blowing the budget, would completely reshape how I saw my heritage
This time, I avoided the big hotel chains and booked a boutique guesthouse called Victorian Elegance and the name didn’t disappoint
When I was guided to my room, I was amazed. I knew it would be nice, but I didn’t expect a stunning suite with a four-poster bed, my own cinema room and a dining area
Once you’re there, it’s another story: the exchange rate works in your favour and you’ll be amazed how far your money goes.
I didn’t once feel like I was scrimping and still came in under that all-important average of £913.
This time, I avoided the big hotel chains and booked a boutique guesthouse called Victorian Elegance and the name didn’t disappoint.
For just £41 per night, I arrived to a welcoming committee, who greeted me with a tilak, a mark on the forehead.
When I was guided to my room, I was amazed.
I knew it would be nice, but I didn’t expect a stunning suite with a four-poster bed, my own cinema room and a dining area.
Outside, there was a courtyard where breakfast was served each morning.
The décor was regal, the food was fresh and local and the hosts treated me like royalty.
It was a world away from my many decades of trips to India. This time, I wasn’t rushed or overwhelmed. I was in control and I loved it
Every morning, they laid out a a traditional Amritsari breakfast banquet in the courtyard, under the rising Punjab sun.
What made it special, though, wasn’t just the luxury touches. It was the fact I felt safe.
As a woman travelling solo, I was cautious, but never afraid.
The hosts helped arrange transport, gave recommendations and made sure I had everything I needed. It was like having my own little support team, but without the group tour vibe.
It was a world away from my many decades of trips to India. This time, I wasn’t rushed or overwhelmed. I was in control and I loved it.
As a side note, Apps like Uber and Ola (India’s version of Uber) work seamlessly, and most drivers speak a little English, enough to get you on your way.
Hotels and guesthouses are used to catering to solo and foreign travellers, especially in cities like Amritsar.
No trip to Amritsar is complete without visiting the Sri Harmandir Sahib, better known as the Golden Temple.
No trip to Amritsar is complete without visiting the Sri Harmandir Sahib, better known as the Golden Temple
For me, as a devout Sikh, it’s a spiritual pilgrimage. But you don’t need to be religious to be moved.
The gold-plated architecture shimmers under the sun, surrounded by holy water you can bathe in and a community kitchen, the Langar, who make and serve over 100,000 free meals every single day.
The meals are for everyone, with fresh, hand rolled baked bread, dhal cooked in huge pots, which you can help make with them.
I cry every time I go.
And going alone gave me the space to soak in the experience without distraction.
It’s dubbed by many as the ‘most peaceful place on Earth’ and I have to say I agree. It’s humbling, healing and powerful.
Everyone is welcome, regardless of faith, gender or background.
Both men and women are expected to cover their heads, as with any Sikh temple, but they provide clean coverings for you, if you don’t have one or if you’re unsure. You remove your shoes and wash your feet and hands, before entering. You then walk through the rest of the Temple barefoot, while your shoes are left at the entrance and are cleaned for you.
If you want a crash course in Punjabi culture, head straight to Sadda Pind
The Temple is immaculate, thanks to the dedicated volunteers who work around the clock to maintain and keep it clean.
Visitors are also welcome to chip in and help out. I’ve seen many young travellers on TikTok, with brushes and brooms, helping out.
If you want a crash course in Punjabi culture, head straight to Sadda Pind.
It’s a recreated village experience that immerses you in the old-world charm of rural Punjab.
For just 850 rupees (about £7), I spent the day making roti on clay ovens, watching folk dancers perform Bhangra and gidda and trying my hand at weaving, pottery and even traditional wedding rituals.
You can meet the village blacksmith, spin thread at the charkha and sip on sweet lassi made the old-fashioned way. It’s Instagram gold, but also deeply educational and interactive.
And, unlike the sanitised tourist traps elsewhere, this feels authentic and alive.
When it comes to food, I’m a stickler for variety, and Amritsar didn’t disappoint.
For just 850 rupees (about £7), I spent the day making roti on clay ovens, watching folk dancers perform Bhangra and gidda and trying my hand at weaving and pottery
Yes, the Punjabi dishes are rich and flavoursome, but you’re not stuck eating curry every night (unless you want to, in which case, you’re in heaven.)
I find everything from wood-fired pizza for £2 to steaming bowls of momos and Indo-Chinese dishes that cost less than a Pret sandwich.
In local restaurants, a family of four can easily eat a full three-course meal. drinks included, for around £12 total.
Even in the more upmarket spots, dinner rarely costs more than £25 for four with drinks, and that’s if you’re splashing out.
I know there’s often fear-mongering around food hygiene in India, which is understandable because sometimes social media wants to highlight the very worst, but honestly, the restaurants I ate at were spotless.
I stuck to well-reviewed places and drank bottled water, the same way I would anywhere unfamiliar and had zero issues.
If anything, it was the best food I’ve had all year, and I didn’t even need to queue for a table.
One of the most common questions I get, especially from women is: ‘But is it safe?’
One of the most common questions I get, especially from women is: ‘But is it safe?’ and the truth is, I didn’t feel any less safe in Amritsar than I do in London, Paris or Rome
And the truth is, I didn’t feel any less safe in Amritsar than I do in London, Paris or Rome.
Of course, as women, we’re always making little safety calculations, but that’s true anywhere.
And, what did make a huge difference was staying at Victorian Elegance, where I had a network of local hosts who genuinely looked out for me.
While I’d be out, they would call or text to check in and I knew I could call them at any time if I felt unsure or needed help.
That kind of personal support goes a long way, especially when travelling solo.
Unlike my past visits, where everything felt hectic and family led, this time, I actually saw the city.
I wandered around, exploring street art, browsed sari shops and haggled at local markets. And while it’s not a beach break, it’s an incredible city escape.
It’s got all the adventure of a far-flung destination with none of the pretense and at a fraction of the price.
I thought I knew what India was. But this time, it showed me something completely different. And honestly? I’d pick it over Barcelona any day
If you’ve ever thought India was ‘too much’, I get it. That’s how I felt too.
India isn’t always easy. It can be loud, it can intense and yes, it can feel chaotic. But go smart, off the beaten path and you’ll find something truly magical.
I thought I knew what India was. But this time, it showed me something completely different. Amritsar surprised me, soothed me and reminded me that home isn’t always where you expect it to be.
And honestly? I’d pick it over Barcelona any day.
