I’ve been a Jane Austen obsessive since university, when I spent a whole happy term immersed in her novels (much more enjoyable than the term spent trying to decipher Middle English). So, in recognition of the 250th year since her birth, I leapt at the chance to visit the city she often visited (and where she is now buried in the cathedral): Winchester.
SATURDAY
10am My first stop is City Museum, where I learn the story of England’s ancient capital, once seat of Alfred the Great. I also gaze at a silk coat once worn by Winchester’s other famous resident, Jane Austen. The city is all over her 250th birthday (£8, historicwinchester.co.uk).
11.45am I walk to local favourite Open House Deli. Pancakes with banana and hazelnut chocolate (above, £9.75) are tempting, but I opt for the virtuous yet delicious hummus, poached eggs and feta bowl with chickpeas, chilli and kale (£11.95, openhousedeli.co.uk).
1pm Winchester’s Regency women were super-stylish, and the city is still full of excellent shops. I visit The Well Worn, which does a great line in ethical ruffly blouses; Sass & Edge (above), for brands such as Ba&sh; and The Consortium, where I unleash my inner trinket magpie.
3pm Winchester College opened in 1382 as a feeder school for New College, Oxford, and I feel an Oxbridge vibe as I cross cobbles and quads to its museum. I’m here for the Austen highlights, which include first editions (above, free, 2-4pm daily, winchestercollege.org).
4pm For this summer only, Winchester College has opened No 8 College Street, where Austen died aged 41. Tickets are sold out, but sign up for returns at visitwinchester.co.uk. I’m moved to see the simple window view she contemplated as she passed her final days.
5pm Time to check in to the centrally located Winchester Royal Hotel (from £125 for a garden-view double, winchesterroyalhotel.com). The staff are attentive and it has a lovely large garden. My no-frills room has everything I need: a kettle for tea and a comfy bed.
7pm The Old Vine is an 18th-century inn near Winchester Cathedral. Its menu focuses on pub classics such as sausage and mash, done to perfection. I’m charmed both by my waiter and the mac-and-cheese dinner I scoff (£15.50, oldvinewinchester.com).
SUNDAY
10.30am After the hotel buffet breakfast, it’s time for a Sunday walk. I stroll the 2.6-mile Viaduct Way, a who’s who of the city’s historic sights. The Victorian Guildhall, King Alfred’s statue, the Winchester City Mill and the 1891 Hockley Viaduct (above) are all en route.
12.30pm To Winchester Cathedral, where an exhibition explores the friendship between Austen and Anne Lefroy (until 19 Oct, free with a £13 annual pass, winchester-cathedral.org.uk). Finally, I say farewell to the author at her grave within the cathedral walls (above).
